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A bit about Zennor, Cornwall

I visited Cornwall recently, and in between showers I painted this scene of the village of Zennor.

It’s rather odd to see a telephone box out on a moor so i painted it in despite the wind and cold. Zennor is tucked away in a small dell off of the main road, just a few ancient buildings with the church tower popping up just above the hillocks and trees like ‘hares ears’ as Betjeman once put it.

I pulled on my boots, and dropped into the church. A lovely tough structure, that’s been battered by centuries of merciless storms. Inside, there is a 15th Century carved bench end showing a mermaid holding up a mirror and comb. There is a distinct whiff of Grayson Perry about it.

During the First World War, the writer DH Lawrence and his wife stayed in the pub for a few weeks. He quickly made himself unpopular. He hated the war and was very vocal about it.

The locals decided his wife was a spy and was thought to be signalling U-Boats from the cliff tops with her washing. Paranoia yes, but she was German and also the cousin of The Red Baron so you couldn’t totally blame them. Lawrence left and never forgave the Cornish.

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